Widow Clicquot

In the wake of The Taste of Things’ visual sumptuousness and directorial energy, the snooziness of French culinary period peer Widow Clicquot feels particularly frustrating.

Directed by the appropriately named Thomas Napper, the fact-based tale of Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin Clicquot (Haley Bennett, Cyrano) attempting to keep her late husband’s champagne empire from folding and/or being sold features plenty of beautiful landscape photography and all the 19th-century detail viewers could want from such a story.

But beyond Madame Clicquot’s dedication to the family business, there’s minimal passion present to populate the scenery with much of note. Whether in flashbacks with her husband François (Tom Sturridge, Far From the Madding Crowd) or in present-day dealings with top wine seller Louis Bohne (Sam Riley, Maleficent), the film’s romance is about as steamy as a Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue and shies away from homoerotic undertones.

The torpid pace undermines the life of a remarkable woman and reasonably strong work by the central cast — particularly Bennett, who again proves herself more than capable in leading roles. Yet not even a pairing with a glass of quality bubbly can save Widow Clicquot from mediocrity.

Grade: C. Rated R. Now playing at Grail Moviehouse.

(Photo: Vertical)